Friday, October 15, 2010

GOLDEN TICKET: Muse Restaurant & Cafe, Polkolbin (Hunter Valley)

Just under 2 hours north of Sydney, the Hunter Valley is a gold mine for fine dining. When you hit it, you hit it big. That's exactly how I felt about Muse - which only opened in 2009, run by a husband and wife duo and their fresh and young staff.

I avoided catalogue and hotel recommendations and blindly stumbled across this restaurant by pure luck. Having no prior knowledge of it, I initially thought the restaurant was run by a hospitality school as each staff member was strategically placed - concierge at the front, waiters and waitresses efficiently handling their tables, sommelier on stand-by and a very clean and tidy open-kitchen in patrons' sight.

While waiting for our table to be prepared, we were relocated to a lounge with a welcoming fireplace and large wooden beams running across the ceiling. Decor-wise, it looked and felt a bit like a ski lodge lounge, but I'm not complaining, as it was nice to be out of the chilly night air. The theme was somewhat inconsistent as their bathrooms resembled a Mexican family restaurant with its dessert red wash walls and random terracotta fittings.

The wait wasn't too long before we were guided to our table. Moments after being seated and having our order taken, we were served an amuse-bouche (on the house) and an on-going bread service with the choice of warm rosemary or pumpkin flavoured rolls.

Entree:

Pan Seared Sea Scallops (with marchetti pancetta, sage and potato cream, white anchovy, almond oil)

Duck and Spinach ravioli (with black fig, foie gras mousse, shiso, walnut, pedro ximenez)

Main course:

Dry Spiced Mandagery Creek Venison 'Sous Vide' (with pumpkin puree, ashed goats cheese, beetroot, green beans)

Dessert:

Honey Nitro Ice Cream

Souffle

A complimentary palate cleanser of watermelon sorbet was slipped in between the entree and mains. Nice touch.

Being a light drinker and having downed two glasses of wine, I cannot remember exactly what the desserts composed of specifically but I do remember that it was good - especially the nitro ice cream. On that note, the wine-list (although lengthy), was nothing special and most names could easily be picked up from your local bottle shop.

My judgement: Great service, good quality food with attention to detail.
The bill came in at around $100 per person. I will most definatley want try out their lunch menu on my next trip to the Hunter.

Friday, September 10, 2010

BLACK LIST: Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Surry Hills

I commend their web designer for the convincingly delicious and indulging looking menu on the website. However not much can be said for whoever they paid to decorate their restaurant. It looked like the project of an overzealous teenager who had rummaged through a sale at the chiffon factory, in attempt to DIY a prom dress in 1988. A bit tacky in my opinion.

Pettiness aside, let's get down to the real reason as to why we are here. Chef Brent Savage - have you tasted your own menu? Have the Siberian salt works been pumping overtime to keep up with your demand? Because someone in the kitchen is going crazy with the white stuff.

Initially, I had planned to take on the tasting course which was offered at $120 pp. But my intuition kicked in after the decor and less than friendly waitstaff had given me an uneasy feeling about the restaurant. In retrospect, I'm glad I followed my instincts.

The flavours were very artifical and freshness only came as often as the waiters did - rarely. This applied especially to the mixed leaf salad.

The order of the night consisted of the following:

Smoking martini - it was just a martini with dry ice. However, there was no mad scientist fog clouding around as I had expected. Lacked showmanship but tasted as good as a martini would taste.

Parmesan custard with truffled asparagus - resembled easy squeeze liquid cheese with dollops foul tasting asparagus plonked around it. A complete dog's breakfast!

Black sesame and sea fondant - an interesting looking dish. However, certain flavours were too sharp and leaving the rest of the plate bland tasting. It lacked balance.

Warm potato 'nougat' - could have been aptly named 'Chernobyl Disaster'. It can served like post-war veggie patch with limbs of mushroom, onion and (possibly) daikon radish randomly thrown around a landing strip of potato puree. The flavours did not compliment each other. As a paying customer, I found the dish to be personally insulting, considering the lack of effort and consideration involved.

Slow roast duck breast with cuttlefish and mushroom - the duck was properly cooked, shamefully the flavour was drowned out by the saltiness. The cuttlefish was not worth mentioning as I only found 2 slithers worth in my dish. The mushroom crumble, once again only tasted of salt.

My taste buds had endured enough trauma by the end of my main. Dessert? No thanks.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

BLACK LIST: Kirribilli Wharf Cafe (Kirribilli)

Having spent the day ferry-hopping on a sunny Sunday morning, I decided to stop off at Kirribilli Wharf. Feeling that I needed a caffeine recharge, I purchased a small flat white from a small cafe located on the wharf.

It didn't look all that right to me but I was on a positive note not to judge a book by it's cover. A lesson learnt. The shop is small and the owners have made the attempt to deck it out in a flare of quirkiness, however, somewhat missing the mark. It seemed that they missed the mark on several other things, that being service and more importantly, coffee making.

The roast was very burnt in aroma and the "coffee" itself tasted like skim milk in dirty water. Much worse than the worse coffee I had at Gloria Jean's made by a teenage trainee.

I struggled to finish the coffee, which I soon donated to the nearest bin. Then I made my way towards Cool Mac Cafe (located in Kirribilli Village) where I was served real coffee.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

BLACK LIST: Pier Restaurant (Rose Bay, Sydney)

Sitting on a jetty on Sydney Harbour in Rose Bay, Pier is a known as a premium seafood restaurant. Since June they have performed an act of gastronomical martyrdom and given up their three hat award for just a two. Since my visit in May, they've made adjustments to their menu to become more community-friendly. In other words, a little bit more casual on the atmosphere and a little less pressure on the wallet.

On the night of my visit, I was very much looking forward to the experience
showcased in their cookbook of the same name. A combination of the ocean's finest, paired with the science of molecular gastronomy.

My order included: Cones of Tartare, Vegetarian Consomme, Risotto of Cultivated Mushrooms, Bass Groper, Potato Puree, and an ongoing bread service.

Overall, the food was creatively served and the entrees came in surprisingly generous servings. Service staff however was not equally matched in terms of friendliness or helpfulness. A little bit on the pretentious side. Hopefully their attitudes have changed since the downgrading.

Our dinner was cut short and dessert was skipped due a certain member of staff.
Greg Doyle, (owner of Pier) is known to be extremely meticulous, especially towards the setting of the restaurant. How this slipped under the radar is beyond me.
Basically, there's a waiter waffling around with a major body odour issue. His timing was impeccable. As soon as the odour diluted to a somewhat bearable level, he would unforgivingly make his return to singe my experience further.

Food captures your senses in order of eyes, nose and finally tastebuds.
This was dining suicide.

Unfortunately, I won't be making a return visit.

Moving on.